My map of France is filled with “want to visit” pins, and Nantes has long been one of those places. My husband and I had tried to visit several times, but something else always came up.
So when we found ourselves with a free weekend, we booked a last minute train and left the next day.
What I discovered after a short weekend in Nantes is that this might be one of the coolest, up-and-coming cities in France – I’m surprised more people don’t visit! It’s one of the fastest growing cities, which brings an influx of younger people and, with that, a wave of hip eateries and stylish shops across both the old and newer parts of town. New green spaces are also reshaping the city along the river.
While this is a weekend guide, I do want to note that many of the restaurants, cafés, and bakeries we had saved to try were closed on Saturday and Sunday. We still managed to try quite a few, but if food is a priority, a Friday to Saturday visit might be better.
Where to Stay in Nantes
- Hôtel Billie: This is where we stayed, and I would recommend it. Clean, centrally located, affordable, and a solid breakfast.
- Maison Maubreuil: A 5-star boutique hotel with just 13 rooms. Each room is thematically designed, inspired by places around the world like Japan and Peru, and decorated with exquisite fabrics.
- Sozo Hotel: One of the more unique hotels, set inside a 19th-century chapel with vibrant stained glass windows. The location is great – near the Botanical Garden and the Erdre River.
What to do in Nantes
Historic Center
The center of Nantes feels classically French. Limestone buildings, cobblestone streets, and small shops line the city.
At Place Royale, spend some time around the Fontaine de la Loire with locals. Continue on to Place Graslin to see Théâtre Graslin, or stop for tea at La Cigale just across the square, a historic Art Nouveau brasserie.
Stop into Nantes Cathedral to see its stunning modern stained glass windows.
Walk along Rue du Château on your way to the Château des Ducs de Bretagne, and make time to check out Rue Maréchal Joffre for food spots like Le Cellier and SAIN.
Jardin des Plantes
We visited a few gardens in Nantes, and the Jardin des Plantes was our favorite. It’s just across from the train station, which makes it an easy first stop after arriving, or a final stroll before leaving if you’re traveling by train.
We happened to visit at peak spring, when the pathways were lined with pink camellia bushes, magnolia trees in bloom, and ducks wandering around the pond. At the far end of the park, there’s a greenhouse, with seasonal flowers planted in the lawn just outside.
We arrived on a Saturday morning and Café de l’Orangerie, next to the greenhouse, had a line out the door. There’s a large outdoor terrace – a lovely place to linger in the garden on a sunny day with a coffee and pastry.
Château des Ducs de Bretagne
A 15th-century château where Anne of Brittany, Duchess of Brittany and Queen of France, was born.
Inside is the city’s history museum, along with rotating art exhibitions. We skipped the museum and instead walked the ramparts, which are free to access, a worthwhile activity for the views alone.
The bookstore here is great!
Île de Versailles
A small island in the middle of the Erdre River, designed as a Japanese garden. It’s a lovely, scenic area to walk around.
Les Machines de l’Île
An amusement park inspired by Jules Verne and Leonardo da Vinci with giant moving animals, including an enormous elephant you can ride.
We were hesitant at first, expecting something overly touristy, but it ended up being a magical experience that made us feel like kids again. I highly recommend it, even for adults.
Purchase tickets in advance if you’d like to ride the animals.
Île de Nantes
This island in the Loire River is where you’ll find much of the city’s modern development. There are several walking paths around the island. The full loop is about 10.5 km and takes roughly three hours.
We stopped at a few different spots: Les Machines de l’Île, Quai des Antilles, Magmaa food hall, and Maison Arlot Cheng for a gâteau Nantais and a great praline latte.
At the end of the quai is Le Hangar à Bananes, where you’ll find a cluster of restaurants and bars along the waterfront.
Passage Pommeraye
Passage Pommeraye is one of the most beautiful architectural spaces in Nantes. A three-level, 19th-century arcade, with statues, staircases, a glass ceiling, and a mix of shops.
Trentemoult
A colorful fishing village across the Loire river. To get there, take the N1 water shuttle from Gare Maritime. It’s a short ride, just a few minutes, and costs the same as a tram ticket. It’s free on the weekend.
The village is small – we wandered for about 45 minutes before heading back to the city center. It’s charming, but overall, we thought it was just okay. I wouldn’t go out of your way to visit if you don’t have time.
Marché de Talensac
A bustling food market with everything you’d need – a fishmonger, cheese shop, bakery, butcher, produce, dried fruits, olives, and more. We spent much more time here than we expected. It’s a great market, and one of the best covered markets I’ve been to in France!
Le Lieu Unique
A cultural center housed in the former LU biscuit factory. If you’ve ever had a Petit Écolier biscuit, this is where they were made up until the late 1900s.
The space now hosts exhibitions and events. Check the calendar to see if anything is on during your visit.
Museums
We opted out of museums on our weekend trip, but here are a couple to consider visiting.
- The Nantes Art Museum has a large collection spanning from the Middle Ages to contemporary art.
- The Jules Verne Museum is dedicated to the author, who was born in Nantes.
Le Jardin Extraordinaire
A park with a 25 meter waterfall and cliffs for rock climbing. It’s a great spot to visit if you are traveling with kids. We went out of our way to visit, but I wouldn’t prioritize it on a short weekend unless you have the time.
Shops in Nantes
- Olow: Artsy and sustainable clothing with fun prints, patterns, and colors.
- Kerners: Chic dresses and tops.
- Manon Calleja: A womenswear boutique I loved.
- Dille & Kamille: A great homeware shop.
- Maison Saudade: A concept store with a bit of everything.
- Librairie Coiffard: A lovely bookstore.
- Les P’ tits Papiers Nantes: Stationery, posters, journals – a fun paper shop.
- Aime Store: A well curated concept store.
- La Droguerie: A haberdashery with yarn, patterns, buttons, and all the works.
Where to Eat in Nantes
We weren’t able to make it through our full list of restaurants in one weekend, so I’ve split this into places we tried (and liked) and places still on our wishlist.
Restaurants We Tried
Le Cellier: A small gourmet grocery store with takeaway items, drinks, snacks, and other French specialties. We picked up a slice of spanakopita and a leek tatin—two of the best things we ate all weekend.
Melon: Seasonal, inventive menu and fresh ingredients. We had this incredible starter with clams and a creamy lime sauce that I will never forget. Also loved their mocktails!
Maison Arlot Cheng: Fantastic bakery. We got the Gâteau nantais and their praline latte – I’d recommend both.
Morfal: Mediterranean-style street food. We got the Chakchouka and Schnitzel wraps – so good!
Rosemary: Excellent pastries with gluten and free and vegan options.
Vincenzo: Great Neopoliotan style pizza.
La Cigale: We went here for the Art Deco interiors. The food was solid, nothing especially memorable, but a good meal. If you want to see the interiors but don’t want to pay the dinner prices, then you can get afternoon tea here instead.
Marguerite Boulangerie: We picked up vegetarian sandwiches and the Couchou ccarmael pastry for our train ride back to Paris. One of the best sandwiches I’ve picked up from a bakery in France and that carmael pastry was to die for.
Restaurants Saved for Next Time
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Nantes Worth Visiting? Absolutely. We were pleasantly surprised by how much Nantes has to offer. There’s plenty to do to keep you busy for a few days, and the restaurant and shopping scene is great.
Is a Weekend in Nantes Enough Time? Yes, we found that two days was a good amount of time to see the city’s main highlights. You could easily spend three days here, especially if you want more time to try restaurants and visit the museums.