Set along Sicily’s northern coast, this once sleepy fishing village has become one of the island’s must-see seaside towns. A long, half-moon shaped beach curves right up to the stone buildings of the old harbor, and the whole setting looks straight out of an old Italian film.
It’s a great stop for a relaxed mix of beach and Sicilian culture, and it’s only 45 minutes from Palermo by train, doable as a day trip, but even better with an overnight stay (or two).
We had just over one day in Cefalù during our 2.5-week road trip around Sicily, and while our visit was short, it was one of our favorite stops on the entire trip. Tip: If you can spare the time, stay at least two nights. One of my biggest regrets was not staying longer!
This guide covers exactly how to spend a day in Cefalù: what to do, where to eat, and where to stay.
Things to do in Cefalù, Italy
The Old Harbor
Cefalù’s long, sandy beach ends at the Old Harbor, where a row of charming stone buildings sits right along the shore. There’s a small beach here called Spiaggia del Porto Vecchio, which translates to “Old Harbor Beach.”
A neat line of blue-striped umbrellas and lounge chairs is typically set up during the summer season. You can opt to pay for a chair, or do what I did and try to snag a free spot on the beach right next to it. It does get busy, so your best bet is to come early or late in the day to avoid the afternoon crowds.
This is also one of the best places to catch the sunset. At golden hour, find a spot along the seawall and watch the light turn the old town gold. It’s stunning.
Cefalù Beach
One of the highlights of staying in Old Town Cefalù is the easy access to Cefalù Beach, which stretches along most of the town. You’ll find plenty of beach clubs where you can rent a chair for the day, or you can bring your own towel and claim a spot in the free public area.
La Rocca
La Rocca is impossible to miss. This 270-meter (880-foot) limestone rock towers over the Old Town of Cefalù. If you’re up for it, you can hike to the top. Plan on at least 2-3 hours round-trip, and naturally, the best views are waiting at the summit.
The trail is rocky and steep, so come prepared for a real climb. Pack plenty of water, wear sunscreen and a hat, and closed-toe shoes are a must. People wearing sandals or flip-flops may be turned away at the entrance.
If you’re visiting in summer, plan to hike in the morning before the heat sets in, or later in the evening.
Good to know:
- Ticket price: €5
- Summer Hours: 8 a.m. – 8 p.m. (last entry at 6 p.m.)
- Winter Hours: 8 a.m. – 5 p.m. (last entry at 3 p.m.)
- Starting Point: Google Maps
- Elevation Gain: 780 feet (238 meters)
- Open-toed shoes are not allowed.
For up-to-date hours, rules, and pricing, check the official Cefalù Website.
Cefalù Cathedral
I won’t deny that it can be hard for me to want to visit another church when I could be at the beach instead, but I do think Cefalù Cathedral is worth a visit.
Built in the 12th century in the Norman‑Arab‑Byzantine style, it’s especially known for the Byzantine mosaics in the apse. You’ll find Byzantine mosaics all around Sicily, like at the Cathedral of Monreale in Palermo, and I’ll never say no to seeing these intricate artworks in person.
You can see the main hall for free. However, if you want a closer look at the mosaics, explore the cloister, and climb the tower, then you will need to purchase a ticket.
Cathedral Ticket Options:
- Red Itinerary: All inclusive ticket, including the tower, roofs, cloisters, cathedral mosaics, treasury and museum areas.
- Blue Itinerary: Tower, roofs, and cathedral mosaics.
- Green Itinerary: Mosaics, treasury and museum area, and cloisters. Does not include the tower or roofs.
Visit the official website to see the ticket options. You can purchase in person or ahead of time online.
Lavatoio Medievale
Many European towns have an old wash house, and Cefalù’s medieval lavatoio is a particularly well‑preserved example.
Just off Via Vittorio Emanuele, a set of lava stone steps leads down to the old baths. The River Cefalino once flowed freely through here until it was covered in the 17th century. Legend says the river was born from the tears of a nymph who, heartbroken, regretted her decision to kill her unfaithful lover.
Visit the Flower Pot Streets
Stop by two charming streets in the old town, Viccolo Caracciolo and Vicolo Osnao, that are lined with colorful Sicilian pots overflowing with flowers.
Tip: You can shop for traditional Sicilian ceramics at A Lumera di Brocato Giuseppe & C. S.n.c. Keep an eye out for the pinecone-shaped ceramic called a pigna, a traditional Sicilian symbol of good fortune and health.
Find the Viewpoints
- Porta Pescara (Porta Marina): For views of Old Harbor Beach.
- Bastione di Capo Marchiafava: For views of the coastline and lighthouse.
- Lungomare di Cefalú: For views Old Town Cefalù and the beach.
Where to Eat in Cefalù
With only one day in Cefalù, we couldn’t try as many restaurants as we would’ve liked, but we did our best to fit in a few memorable places.
For Cannoli and Pastries: Gelateria Pasticceria Cangelosi
My husband and I are pretty big foodies and will plan an entire trip around food. During our road trip around Sicily, we were on a mission to find the best cannoli on the island.
I had read about this small, family-run pastry shop just outside the historic center of Cefalù. We picked up a couple of (giant) cannoli to split between the three of us (we were traveling with my mom), and from the first bite, I knew this might be the one. Even though Cefalù was only our second stop, nothing else we tried later on quite measured up.
So, in my humble opinion, Gelateria Pasticceria Cangelosi is where you’ll find the best cannoli in Sicily.
It was so good we went back the next morning to grab another for the road, along with a cartocci, a sugar-dusted doughnut filled with sweet ricotta. Just one more reason to make the detour and try this wonderful little pastry shop while you’re in town.
For Granitas: Amorelli
Granitas are a Sicilian shaved ice dessert. There are creamy flavors, like almond and pistachio, and fruity ones like mandarin and strawberry. My go-to is always an almond granita.
For the best granitas on the island, you’ll want to head to Bam Bar in Taormina or Caffè Sicilia in Noto
For sit-down restaurants: Locanda del Marinaio or La Botte
Both have local seafood dishes. Make reservations in advance.
Where to Stay in Cefalù
- Cefalù Design Suites: We stayed here and loved it. Excellent location, well-priced, and friendly owners.
- Le Calette Bay: 5-star hotel right outside of town.
- Lirma B&B: A lovely bed & breakfast. This was my first choice but was sold out.
- B&B Cortile Umberto I: Nice rooms and great location.
- Essenza Boutique Apartments: Good option if you’re looking to stay in an apartment with a kitchen.
How to Get to Cefalù
By Train
From Palermo, it’s only a 45 minute train ride to Cefalu. You can book your tickets on the app or online at Trenitalia.com, or directly at the station on the day of. The train station in Cefalu is about a 10-minute walk from the old town.
By Car
We drove to Cefalu and parked at Via Aldo Moro 5. It’s only a 5 minute walk from the main piazza. You can pre-book here. I also recommend reaching out to your hotel in advance to ask if they offer parking or can suggest nearby options.
Cefalù: Frequently Asked Questions
How do I get to Cefalù from Palermo?
The easiest way to reach Cefalù is by train from Palermo’s main station. The journey takes about 45 minutes.
What is the best time of year to visit Cefalù?
We visited mid-September and it was bliss! Not too crowded and perfect weather. April-May and September-October are best to avoid peak season, otherwise June-August are great if you want reliable summer weather.
How many days should I spend in Cefalù?
You can see the main sights in one day, but I recommend spending at least two full days. I really wish we had stayed an extra day to enjoy the beach a bit more and explore beyond the old town.
Where should I stay in Cefalù?
I recommend staying in the old town for easy access to the beach, restaurants, and shops. If you have a car and are looking for more of a retreat experience, the hills above town are a good option.
Is Cefalù worth visiting?
My honest opinion? Absolutely. Cefalù was one of the highlights of our entire Sicily trip, and we still talk about going back when we return to the island.
If you are in Palermo and you want a really handy beach experience just go to the local handy Mondello.