I often get asked, “Where should I go in Provence?” It’s a region I return to again and again, even though there are still many places in France I want to see. My travel philosophy is to go back if you really love somewhere, and I really love Provence.
Aix-en-Provence is where I recommend most people go if they want to experience an idyllic Provençal city. The three-times-per-week market is what really makes Aix a must visit. It’s one of the best in France, with stalls overflowing with regional specialties: block-printed tablecloths, straw market baskets, olive oil scented soap, produce galore, and breezy linens.
Aix is also a good base if you’re looking to explore the eastern side of Provence, including the Luberon Valley, Cassis, Marseille, and the Calanques. But if you’re short on time and just passing through, one day in Aix-en-Provence is enough to get a good taste of the city.
Where to Stay in Aix
Luxury: Villa Saint-Ange
Boutique: Hotel Particulier le 28 by Les Collectionneurs
Mid-range: Les Quatre Dauphins
What to do in Aix-en-Provence
Visit the Market
The market is held three times per week on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday mornings. Weekdays are usually less busy, though the summer months are always buzzing no matter what day you visit.
Place Richelme is my favorite spot to shop for produce. It’s the cutest square, with trees and small shops around. You’ll find other crafts and goodies lining Cours Mirabeau, Aix’s main boulevard.
Don’t miss the flower market at the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville.
Book: A Gourmet Walking Tour of the city and market.
Explore the Historic Old Town
Golden limestone buildings, historic fountains, and tree lined boulevards characterize Aix’s city center. Often called the “city of a thousand fountains,” you’ll find fountains in many of the city’s squares and streets.
A few fountains to see:
- Fontaine de la Rotonde
- Fontaine Moussue
- Fontaine des Quatre Dauphins
- Fontaine des Neuf-Canons
I also recommend stopping by these squares:
- Place des Cardeurs: A lively square with al fresco dining in the summer.
- Place d’Albertas: A picturesque square with a fountain at its center.
- Place Richelme: A lovely square with trees, small shops, and produce stalls on market days.
- Place de l’Hôtel de Ville: Home to the town hall and the daily flower market.
Visit Paul Cezanne’s Atelier
I love visiting artists’ ateliers, so you can imagine how thrilled I was when I found out I could visit Paul Cézanne’s studio in Aix. This former workshop sits on the hills overlooking the city and is only about a 15 to 20 minute walk from the center.
Cézanne purchased the studio in 1901, and it became his primary residence and workspace during the final years of his life until his death in 1906. Many of his most recognized paintings were created here.
The atelier remains exactly as it was when Paul Cézanne lived and painted there. You may even recognize some of the objects, like the fruit bowl, green pitcher, and skulls, from his paintings.
The studio is temporarily closed. Check the website for updates on reopening.
Check out a couple museums
Hôtel de Caumont: A gorgeous 18th century mansion that doubles as a house museum and art center. It hosts different exhibitions throughout the year featuring well known artists. Past exhibitions have included Chagall, Cézanne, and Dufy. Stop for lunch or afternoon tea at the café, and if the weather is nice, grab a seat in the beautiful gardens.
Musée Granet & Granet XXe Collection Jean Planque: With a collection spanning from the Renaissance to modern art, including artists like Picasso, Rembrandt, and Cézanne, it’s one of the best museums in Aix. The Jean Planque Collection is located in the 16th century Chapelle des Pénitents Blancs. There are two parts to the museum: the main museum at Place Saint-Jean de Malte and the second location called Granet XXe. I recommend visiting both. Tickets can be purchased at the museum.
Fondation Vasarely: A cool museum dedicated to abstract artist Victor Vasarely, just outside of the city center.
Gallifet: An art center dedicated to contemporary artists, with a restaurant set in a private bastide in the center of Aix.
With only a day in Aix, I’d go to Hôtel de Caumont and Granet XXe Collection.
Where to Eat in Aix
Restaurants:
- Tita for Mediterranean cuisine. I love their falafel plates.
- Grenache for seasonal French fare.
- Étude for Michelin starred French fine dining.
- Les Vieilles Canailles for classic bistro food.
Drinks:
- Celeste for inventive cocktails.
Bakeries:
- Madeleines De Christophe for fresh out of the oven madeleines. I love the lemon ones.
- Maison Weibel for pastries.
- Farinoman Fou Aix for artisan bread.
Getting to Aix-en-Provence
Getting to Aix By Car
I suggest parking in a garage just outside the center. We parked in the Parking Pasteur lot, located near the Atelier Cézanne. You can find other parking garages by searching “parking Aix-en-Provence” in Google Maps, and plenty of options will show up.
Getting to Aix by train
There are two train stations in Aix-en-Provence.
- Gare d’Aix-en-Provence
- Aix-en-Provence TGV
If you’re traveling to Aix from Paris, the train arrives to the Aix-en-Provence TGV station, which is the high-speed train station. The only downside to arriving here is that it’s about 16 km southwest of the city center. You’ll need to catch a bus into Aix from the station.
If you’re planning to rent a car, then you can pick one up from the TGV station.
If you want to arrive at the city center, book your ticket to arrive at the Gare d’Aix-en-Provence.
Book your train tickets online at SNCF. I recommend purchasing at least three weeks in advance to get the best prices.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it worth visiting Aix-en-Provence? Yes, Aix-en-Provence is most definitely worth visiting, even just for the market. It’s one of my favorite cities in France.
Can you walk around Aix-en-Provence? Yes, Aix-en-Provence is a small and walkable city. Everything is within 15-minutes walking distance from each other.
What is the best village base in Provence? Aix-en-Provence is one of the best places to base yourself in Provence. We spent two weeks in Aix while visiting the Luberon Valley and the towns on the French Riviera. Its close proximity to many different attractions makes it an ideal place to stay while exploring the area.
Is one day in Aix-en-Provence enough time? Yes, one day is enough time to get a taste for the city. It’s not huge, so you’ll be able to see all of the main sights. I think two days is a more ideal amount of time though.
Headed over on the 24th of April for 4 days, excited, looking forward to it. Then taking the train to Bordeaux. Staying at the Renaissance hotel. Not driving. Any lovely recommendations of what we should not miss during this time? Thank you kindly – Doris & Frank
Hi Doris,
How exciting! Aix is one of our favorite cities in France.
Are you looking for recommendations for Bordeaux or Aix? In addition to what’s in this article, I suggest visiting the Fondation Vasarely in Aix, as well as taking a day trip to the towns in the Luberon Valley. This area is absolutely beautiful. I’m sure there are full-day tours that can take you to the towns; otherwise, you could rent a car for the day. Gordes, Menerbes, L’Isle Sur La Sorgue, Bonnieux, and Roussillon are all lovely.
For Bordeaux, I have an article about how to visit Bordeaux in 2 days, which covers most of the main sights. I highly recommend taking the train out to Saint-Emilion for the day from Bordeaux, or booking a full-day wine tasting experience. Here’s a link to my list of Saint Emilion Wine Tour recommendations and Medoc wine tours.
I hope this is what you are looking for! I’m happy to answer any other specific questions you may have 🙂
Jenoa
We are headed to Aix en Provence on 7/17. We arrive into Marseille from Ibiza at 7:30pm. We plan to taxi to Aix and spend 3 nights. We are having a difficult time finding a boutique style hotel. The hotel Particulier le 28 is not available for our dates. We drive to Gargas and stay 4 nights at Coquillade Provence to explore the Vaucluse & Luberon region.
We train from Avignon to Barcelona to fly home.
Should we just base ourselves in one place in Provence rather than 2 since we are having a hard time finding a hotel in Aix? Would love some suggestions. Thank you.
Hi Wendy,
I apologize for the much delayed response! I hope you were able to find a place in or near Aix for your trip.
Best,
Jenoa
Were are you able to find a hotel in aix?
Hi Colin & Jenoa! I’ve been studying your guides. My older mother and I are traveling to Provence in late May. Flying into Marseille and considering Arles, Avignon and Aix-en-Provence. Which of these cities would you recommend to make our home base? Cheers!
Hi Rebekah,
How fun! Both Avignon and Aix are good home bases and where you stay really depends on what you want to see and do on your trip.
Aix is ideal if you want to spend more time exploring the Luberon Villages (Gordes, Bonnieux, Oppede, etc.). You need 2 days to explore them all. Also, coastal towns, such as Cassis and St. Tropez are closer to Aix.
Avignon is ideal if you want to explore towns, such as Arles, Uzes, Saint-Remy, Les Baux de Provence, and the Camargue area… I personally prefer Aix-en-Provence as a place to stay but I would choose based on what area you plan to see more of.
I hope this helps! Happy to answer any other questions about your trip 🙂
Best,
Jenoa
Hi,
We are flying to Marseille arriving 4 April and flying home from Nice the evening of 11 April.
We may stay in Marseille our first night. We thought we’d then go to St Remy or Aix to explore the region. But we want to also see the coast. Don’t know how to split it up. I’ve heard we HAVE to go to the Luberon Valley. But I also heard Aix and Arles are wonderful.
We don’t know how many days to spend where. 😃
Thanks!
Hi Laura,
What a fun trip!
Will you have a car on your trip? If you do, I recommend visiting Cassis from Marseille and doing the hike to the Calanque d’en Vau from Cassis. It’s one of the best coastal hikes I’ve ever done and Cassis is a charming seaside village.
Spend a day in both St. Remy and Les-Baux-de-Provence. Spend a day in Aix. Spend a half-day in Arles and the other half in Avignon.
I’d dedicate a full day to the Luberon Villages. They are all pretty close to each other and you could easily visit 4 villages in a day.
You’ll have to let me know what you ended up doing! It’s such a gorgeous region!
Best,
Jenoa
Hello
I will be on a cruise ship in Toulon- have a day to explore Aix- 1st time is there a train that takes you directly from the port. Any ideas?
Thanks
Nancy
Hi Nancy,
There is a train from Toulon train station to Aix, with a connection in Marseille, and it takes about 2 hours each way. You can search for train tickets and times online at the SNCF website. Make sure you search from Toulon to Aix-en-Provence CENTRE – not the TGV station.
The train station in Toulon is about a 17-minute walk from the port. I’m sure you could take a taxi from the port as well.
Best,
Jenoa
Hi Jenoa,
I’ve booked a train from Geneva to Aix-en-Provence TGV as I prefer a direct train trip. Is this station far from the top attractions in Aix-en-Provence? I just would like to know more about this place, see their old town, etc.
Would greatly appreciate your advice where best to stay. We are a couple and would use public transport.
Thanks in advance for your advice.
Thank you in advance.
Hi Ghie,
The TGV station is about a 25 minute drive or 30-45 minute bus ride from the center of Aix. The easiest option is to catch a taxi, or you can take the L040 bus directly to the center. I recommend staying in the city center. Aix is very walkable and you can reach most things on foot. I’ve listed a few hotels in this post that are good options.
Hope this helps!
-Jenoa
Coming to aix in November, would love Recommendations on city Center hotels as well as day trips from aix !
Thank you
Hi Wendy,
I have a few hotels listed in this post that I recommend for Aix. Here are a few others!
– Maison du Collectionneur
– Hotel Cardinal
– Hôtel Particulier le 28
Day trips from Aix:
– Avignon
– Arles
– Cassis & The Calanques
– Marseille
– The Luberon Valley
Let me know if you have any other questions!
Best,
Jenoa
Hi, I have been reading the blog and getting loads of information. We will travel over New Year. We plan to stay in Aix and then make day trips to Avignon and Arles. I understand that Jan 1st will be closed in most places but which city would you suggest we spend it in to wander around without needing ticketed entry.
Hi Ayesha,
I personally would choose either Aix or Avignon, since they are larger cities and lovely to walk around. La Mirande in Avignon may have a nice afternoon tea on New Year’s Day, but you may want to email them in advance to double check.
Enjoy your trip 🙂
-Jenoa
Thanks for all the info!
Thoughts on doing Aix as a day trip from Marseille? Looks like it’s only about 45 minutes by train. I like to walk so walking quite a bit in Aix would be my plan anyway.
Hi Bob,
Aix is definitely a doable day trip from Marseille – I think it’s a great idea! Just make sure to book your train tickets to Aix CENTRE station – not the TGV station.
Best,
Jenoa
Hi Jenoa!
My husband and I are going to be traveling to provence region from the US in September. We are hoping to stay in Aix for half the trip (one of our friends lived there for a few years so has some local recs) and then another half of the trip another spot. We will be renting a car and could fly into NICE or Marsaille. Not sure if you had any recommendations as to splitting the trip in a second area? We love local towns, hiking, and don’t want to try to be rushing from one spot to the next so we figured going out of two locations might be nice. We will be there for about 9 days.
Thank you so much!
-Emmy
Hi Emmy! That sounds like such a fun trip. I’m so glad you’re staying in Aix for half the trip, it’s in a great location for exploring the Luberon Valley, Cassis (highly recommend the Calanques hike!), and Valensole area.
As for the second half of your trip, I have a couple of suggestions.
1. Stay in Provence. In that case, I would stay near Saint-Remy-de-Provence. It’s the most charming small town and close to the Alpilles Mountains. We did a full-day e-bike trip from Saint-Remy to the Alpilles and surrounding towns, which was a highlight for us! You’re also not too far from Avignon, Arles, the Camargue, the beach, Uzes, and so many other great spots.
2. Head to the French Riviera. You could stay in Saint-Paul-de-Vence, Nice, or Grasse. Depends on if you want sea or countryside vibes. There’s a lot to do over here, like Menton, Eze, Antibes, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, and so on.
There is plenty to do in Provence to keep you busy for 9 days. But if you want a mix of French Riviera and Provence, then 9 days is enough time to split it up and get a taste of both regions.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
Jenoa
Hi Jenoa,
What a great post! The photos are beautiful and I appreciate all the helpful tips.
We’re heading in Provence in May (after Paris) and plan to spend three nights in Saint-Remy and four in Aix. We figured those would give us a mix of a smaller village and a larger town and would both be good for day trips.
From Saint-Remy, we’d like to go to Les Baux-de-Provence and maybe Arles and/or Avignon, and are also interested in the ebike tour you mentioned. Is there a particular company you’d recommend?
From Aix, my main priority is the Luberon villages, and hopefully also Cassis if we have time. I’d love to do the hike you mentioned.
Does this sound like a good itinerary? Am I missing anything (other than being able to stay for a month or two)?
Thanks,
Deborah
Hi Deborah,
Thank you for your kind words – I appreciate it!
Your itinerary sounds perfect! You’ve covered all of my favorite spots. If you are interested, Uzes and the Pont du Gard are also a great day trip from Saint-Remy.
Regarding the ebike tour, we rented through Sun Ebike. We did a self-guided tour, so we could go at our own pace and it was amazing!
The hike in Cassis is beautiful. If you do have the time, it’s worth it!
Enjoy your trip to the South of France! I hope you have the best time 🙂
– Jenoa
Hi
I will be traveling to Aix with my family of 7 , all grown children and staying in an Airbnb for 6 nights which is right outside of the town in July. Your article was very helpful and informative. I appreciate that. We plan on doing a day in Luberon Valley and touring a bunch of towns. However we will be there the beginning of July and would like to bike about 2 to 3 hours in the lavender fields. Where would you recommend biking for a short period. Gordes was recommended but we will be there on a separate day. Would appreciate your advice Thank you
Hi Liz,
I’ve never done a bike trip around the lavender fields, so I’m not the best person to give advice on this. I do know that the area around Sault and Valensole have beautiful lavender fields. I found this article about biking in Sault – it looks beautiful. I hope this is helpful!
Best,
Jenoa