Arles is a city of contrasts. The remnants of its Roman past shape the historic side of the city, while a growing number of contemporary galleries and art spaces bring in a new energy.
The city can feel a bit gritty, and in the off season Arles can feel almost like a ghost town, as I experienced during a recent March visit. But within the labyrinth of streets along the Rhône, you’ll find edgy vintage shops, inventive restaurants, and cool art exhibitions and shops.
I’ve visited Arles several times over the past decade, and this guide is based on how I’d spend a day in the city, including restaurants, shops, and Roman sights. If you’re exploring Provence, I recommend setting aside at least half a day to see the main sights and try a couple of restaurants.
You can spend a full day in Arles, or split your time between the Camargue in the morning and Arles in the afternoon and evening.
Note: I recommend visiting Arles between Tuesday and Saturday. Most restaurants and shops are closed on Sunday and Monday.
Where to Stay in Arles
- L’Hôtel Particulier: A gorgeous 5-star hotel set inside an 18th-century building, with minimal French country interiors, a pool, and a garden.
- L’Arlatan: For design lovers. Bold prints, colorful tiles, and playful lighting all come together in an artsy way.
- Le Cloître: A cool boutique hotel with eclectic, slightly eccentric interiors.
- Hôtel de l’Amphithéâtre: I stayed here on my most recent visit, and it’s a great option for budget-friendly travelers. Clean, well designed for the price point, and I’d stay here again.
What to do in Arles for a Day
The Roman Ruins
Arles was settled as a Roman colony by Julius Caesar in the 1st century BC. It was nicknamed “Little Rome,” which is quite fitting, considering I couldn’t help but notice the resemblance between the hanging vines and faded facades of Rome’s Trastevere and Old Town Arles.
There are six Roman monuments you can visit. You can purchase a pass that includes all six monuments and four museums, or opt for a smaller pass with four monuments and two museums. With just one day in Arles, I recommend the pass with four monuments, or simply paying individually. I’ve marked the ones that are worth going inside with an asterisk.
Roman Amphitheater*: Built in 90 AD, this arena once held 20,000 spectators for gladiator battles and chariot races, and later became a medieval fortress with the addition of its towers. Today, it hosts bullfights and performances.
Roman Theater: Located next to the arena, this theater dates back to the 1st century BC under Emperor Augustus. It once seated 10,000 people and is still used today for concerts and events.
Saint-Trophime Cloister*: A Roman Catholic church completed in the 15th century. Don’t miss the cloister, where beautifully carved columns depict detailed biblical scenes.
Baths of Constantine: Built in the 4th century under Emperor Constantine, these Roman baths once included hot and cold pools, saunas, and massage rooms. Even in ruins, they’re an impressive example of Roman engineering.
Cryptoporticus*: A 1st century BC underground passageway beneath Arles, originally used to transport goods across the city. The vaulted corridors and stone pillars make it one of the city’s most unique Roman sites.
The Alyscamps*: Once a large Roman cemetery, with sarcophagi lining the pathway up to a medieval church.
Van Gogh in Arles
Vincent van Gogh spent 14 months in Arles between 1888 and 1889, creating over 300 paintings inspired by the Provençal landscapes and the city itself.
One of my favorite things to do in Arles is the self-guided Van Gogh walking tour, which takes you to many of the places he painted, including:
- The cafe from his painting “Le Cafe La Nuit.”
- The Langlois Bridge, a 40-minute walk from the center of Arles or a 12-minute drive.
- L’Espace Van Gogh, the hospital turned community center where Van Gogh stayed after cutting off his ear. He painted scenes of the yellow courtyard here, including Garden of the Hospital in Arles and Ward of the Hospital in Arles.
- The Alyscamps cemetery.
You can download the walking tour guide here, or you can pick one up from the tourist office in Arles.
Fondation Vincent Van Gogh
The Fondation Vincent van Gogh is a non profit museum dedicated to his life and legacy.
The collection focuses on contemporary artists inspired by Van Gogh’s time in Arles, alongside a selection of his original works.
I really enjoyed my visit and would recommend stopping in if you want to learn more about his life and see his work in person while you’re in Arles.
Wander Through The Streets
The streets of Arles are incredibly charming. Walk around La Roquette neighborhood, a residential area with a few hip restaurants and secondhand shops. Sunbathe at Place de la République with the obelisk fountain at its center.
Walk along Rue des Arènes for a framed view of the Arles Arena. It’s a fun city to stroll around without an agenda.
The Arles Market
The Arles market is one of the largest in Provence and is held year round every Wednesday and Saturday morning from 8am to 1pm.
The Wednesday market is smaller and takes place along Boulevard Émile Combes, while the Saturday market is much larger, with more vendors, and is held along Boulevard des Lices.
Visit a Museum
Réattu Museum: A fine art museum with contemporary works, photography, and drawings by Pablo Picasso.
Arles Antiquities Museum: Showcases artifacts and objects from Arles’s Roman past.
LUMA Arles (Parc des Ateliers): Just outside the city center, a cool space for modern and contemporary art exhibitions.
Les Rencontres d’Arles
One of the best things to do in Arles is attend Les Rencontres d’Arles, an annual photography festival held from July through September.
If you’re visiting during these months, plan ahead and attend an exhibition, workshop, or performance as part of the festival. For more details, visit the official website.
Where to Eat in Arles
- Mazette!: For coffee, brunch, and one of the biggest matcha lattes you’ll find outside of Paris. Their avocado toast is amazing.
- Paou: For a French take on small plates. Reserve in advance.
- Eat Parade: A lovely café with sandwiches, salads, and bakery items.
- Le Sauvage: An essential morning bakery stop.
- Chez La Belge: For focaccia sandwiches.
- Cafar Coffee Lab: For your morning espresso.
- Chardon: Rotating chef driven menus.
Where to Shop in Arles
- L’Angerie: A cute second hand shop.
- Librairie Actes Sud: A great bookstore.
- Brocante Arles – La Grande Manufacture: Fantastic selection of furniture.
- Moustique: A well-curated home goods shop.
- Ghost Town: Vintage clothing store.
- Ou Arles: A lovely antique store.
How to Get to Arles
Getting to Arles By Car
I always recommend renting a car for a Provence road trip. If you’re driving to Arles, the Parking du Centre covered lot is about a 5 minute walk from the center and helps you avoid driving through the old town.
Getting to Arles by Train
You can easily reach Arles by train from Avignon, Marseille, and other towns in the region. The station is about a 10-minute walk from the Amphitheatre in the center.
Use the SNCF website to purchase train tickets in France.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is one day enough for Arles? Yes, it’s plenty of time to see the main sights and more. Arles is a small city and makes for a great day trip if you’re staying in nearby Saint-Rémy or another Provençal town.
Is Arles worth visiting? I’ve been to Arles five or six times over the past decade I keep going back because of its fascinating history and growing art and food scene, so yes, it’s absolutely worth a visit.
When is the best time to visit Arles? April through October is the best time for festivals and events. Summers are hot and can get busy during Les Rencontres d’Arles, while spring and fall are ideal if you want to avoid the crowds and heat.
How to get around Arles? Walking is the best way to get around. Most things are within a ten to fifteen minute walk.
Is Arles or Avignon better? I like both and can’t choose a favorite. Arles is better for Van Gogh and Roman history, while Avignon is known for the Palais des Papes and its nearby wine region, Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Hi! How do you recommend getting from AIX to Arles? We we take an uber back and forth? Or is there a good site for booking car service?
Hi Shital,
You can get from Aix-en-Provence to Arles in 2 hours by train. Take the train from Aix Centre to Arles with a stopover at Marseille St Charles station. Tickets can be purchased at the train station, or online at SNCF. Just make sure to search from Aix-en-Provence Centre station – not the TGV station because that’s a few KM outside of the city center.
Unfortunately, I do not have a contact for a private car service in Provence. You could rent a car in Marseille or in Aix, it’s quite easy to get around the region by car.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Best,
Jenoa
Don’t speak French…is it feasible to rent a car if I can’t read the road signs? The streets look so narrow– would a Toyota rental squeeze thru those streets or would I park outside the main area of town? And then is all my luggage/belongings safe in the car if I leave it unattended all day?
Hi Kimberly,
I’ve rented a car in France several times and have never had an issue with car size. In small towns, you can usually find parking lots right outside of the city center or near the train station. Search “parking” on google maps in whatever city you are in and some options should show up.
With Google Maps, it’s easy to get around without knowing the language. The road signs are pretty intuitive.
I do not recommend leaving your luggage unattended all day. Leave it at your accommodation if you can.
Hope this helps,
Jenoa
We will take a Uniworld river cruise from Arles to Lyons beginning July 7, 2024. It includes a first-day walking tour of Arles. We will arrive late afternoon on July 5 and, thereforw, will have a day and a half to explore Arles and the surrounding region (we will not have a car). Would be interested in joining a small group tour of the places we will will most likely not see with Uniworld. Would you have some recommendations for us–camargue, saint remy, etc? My wife wants to see lavender?:) Any tours companies you recommend? Particular tours with those companies? Places to eat in Arles? Thanks so much. Great site!
Hi Paul,
I apologize, I’m very late to respond to your comment. I hope you enjoyed your trip and I hope you were able to book a tour to Arles for the day!
Best,
Jenoa
Wonderful information for walking. What if one is unable to walk very much at all? thank you
Hi Joan,
Thank you for your comment. Unfortunately, within the old center of Arles, there aren’t many public transportation options to help get around. The city is fairly flat with some cobblestoned streets, which would make it easier to get around by wheelchair. Additionally, some of the main sights have a few steps in order to get inside.
I hope this helps.
Best, Jenoa
My husband uses a manual travel wheelchair, ie, I push him. It is difficult to push a wheelchair over small cobblestones, e.g.brick size, though larger paving stones are not bad. Are you able to comment on which are more prevalent in Arles?
Is the dock for river cruise boats near the town?
Hi Meg,
It has been a couple of years since I’ve been to Arles. I don’t remember the roads being too wobbly. I think it was fairly smooth for the most part.
If you are taking a river cruise, I’d definitely reach out to them about where the boats dock, as I am not 100% sure.
-Jenoa
Hi, if I travel from Barcelona, what would be the best train and the nearest city to get to Arles?
And if is not to much to ask, what other cities would you recommend near Arles since I was considering Toulouse but it is somewhat far away and I’m not familiar with the transport.
Hi Ximena,
I would take the train to either Avignon or Marseille – Avignon is closer. There are so many beautiful towns and cities near Arles, I recommend reading my 25 Best Things to do in Provence article to get some ideas. A few quick ideas: Uzes, Avignon, Aix-en-Provence, Cassis, Marseille, Luberon Valley… there are so many beautiful places in this area.
Best,
Jenoa
Tank you so much, I will read it.