Portofino may get all the press and the tourists, but Santa Margherita Ligure is the real deal.
When I was planning my trip to the Italian Riviera, I originally thought I’d stay in Portofino or Camogli, since those were the places I’d always heard about. But as often happens, a boutique hotel I’d been eyeing for years suddenly became available, so I booked a three-night stay in Santa Margherita Ligure, just down the coast from Portofino, instead.
I didn’t know much about the town beforehand, but to my surprise, Santa Margherita Ligure ended up being my favorite stop on my mini-cation along the Riviera. It feels local and relaxed, with a great mix of shops (not just high-end boutiques) and plenty of authentic, traditional food.
If you’re after a more genuine Italian Riviera experience, this is the place to stay. In this guide, I’m sharing the best things to do in Santa Margherita Ligure, from where to eat and what to see, to that boutique hotel I’d stay at again in a heartbeat.
Santa Margherita Ligure Quick List
Stay: Villa Gelsomino Guesthouse
Do: Explore Villa Durazzo; Relax at the Beach; Take a Day Trip to Portofino, Camogli and Cinque Terre
Eat: Trattoria da Pezzi
Best Things to do in Santa Margherita Ligure
Explore the Town
Santa Margherita wraps around a wide harbor lined with colorful buildings in shades of pink, orange, and yellow. The old town is quite small, and you only need to plan on spending around 3 hours exploring it.
I picked up some beautiful glassware from Accademia Lifestyle, a lovely shop filled with tasteful pieces sourced from around Italy. Ikikiz is a clothing shop I loved, with relaxed pieces made in light fabrics.
I was genuinely impressed by the shopping here, with mostly boutique and locally owned stores, none of the flashy designer names you find in Portofino.
Stop by Panificio Pasticceria Dama for a slice of cake and Antica Drogheria Seghezzo for their almond biscotti.
Don’t miss the main square, Piazza Caprera.
Visit Villa Durazzo
Villa Durazzo was the highlight of my slow afternoon in Santa Margherita. Built in the late 18th century by the Durazzo family, the villa has a gorgeous pink facade with green shutters on the outside and terrazzo floors, frescoed walls, and Venetian chandeliers inside.
The real showstopper, though, is the garden. The balcony, flanked with statues, overlooks the town and Mediterranean sea. The garden is filled with exotic plants and tropical flowers, I spent a good hour here relaxing on a bench and walking around.
The gardens are free to visit, and there’s a small fee if you want to see the villa’s interiors. For more information, visit Villa Durazzo’s official website.
Tip: Just down the hill from Villa Durazzo, is Santa Margherita Castle. There’s not much to see beyond a tall stone tower, but it’s worth a quick stop on your walk back into town.
Relax at the Beach
Several beaches line the coastline along Santa Margherita’s harbor. Many have private beach clubs where you can rent a couple of chairs and an umbrella for a half or a full day. Prices vary, but during the summer months expect to pay around 35–60 euros (or more) for a couple of chairs, depending on the club.
Central Bagni and Bagni Vicini are two beach clubs on the southern side of town. Spiaggia Libera is the main public beach, perfect if you want to bring your own towel.
On the north end, Bagni Sirena and Bagni Rosa are popular private options. At Spiaggia Minaglia, you should be able to find free spots to lay out a towel, though when I visited, it was windy, so the beach clubs were pretty quiet.
Take a Day Trip
Santa Margherita Ligure is a great base for exploring the Italian Riviera. It’s centrally located, making it easy to hop on a train or ferry for a day trip to nearby coastal towns like Portofino and Cinque Terre.
During my three-day stay, I took day trips to Camogli, Portofino, and Cinque Terre. All worth adding to your itinerary.
Portofino
From Santa Margherita, take either the #782 bus or the ferry to Portofino. Both take around 15–20 minutes. We downloaded the AMT Genova app to pay for bus tickets digitally. You can purchase ferry tickets at the dock. Plan to spend half a day here.
If the weather cooperates, you can continue on to San Fruttuoso, a secluded bay only accessible by boat. You can use the same ferry service to get here. (The seas were too rough when I went, so we had to skip it.)
Camogli
Only a quick three-minute train ride from Santa Margherita, Camogli is a picturesque coastal town between Portofino and Genoa. I spent about 3 hours here. Get focaccia from Focacceria Revello (highly recommend!) and on a nice day, bring your towel and relx at Spiaggia Libera di Camogli, the main beach with amazing views.
Cinque Terre
One of the most famous spots in Italy, Cinque Terre is just 1.5 hours from Santa Margherita by train. I’d already been a few times, but since my mom hadn’t, we spent a day exploring the colorful seaside villages together. You can read my One Day in Cinque Terre post for everything you need to know.
Sestri Levante
About twenty minutes away by train, Sestri Levante was on my list, but we ran out of time and chose Cinque Terre instead. I’d read about it in a few magazines, and even my hotel host said it was a must. The beach looks beautiful, a great option if you’re after a more under-the-radar destination on the Riviera.
Read more: Best Things to do in Cinque Terre
Where to Stay in Santa Margherita
I’d had this guesthouse on my hotel wishlist for a couple of years. The owners bought the villa before Covid and have since transformed it into seven beautifully renovated rooms.
The common areas and breakfast terrace overlook the entire town, with views all the way to Portofino. The floors are covered in mosaic terrazzo tile and ceilings are frescoed. Everything about this place is dreamy and I’d stay again in heartbeat!
We met a lovely mother-and-daughter duo staying here, and they couldn’t stop raving about it. This hotel is a fantastic luxury hotel option in Santa Margherita.
Where to Eat
- Trattoria da Pezzi: So good we went twice. Order the mandilli al pesto and any of the seasonal dishes. Reservations are recommended, but we lucked out and got in both times without one.
- La Paranza da Marina: Recommended by our hotel host, we ordered a whole fish baked with potatoes and cherry tomatoes. One of our most memorable meals of the trip.
- Angolo 48: Right in the heart of town, this is a solid spot for Italian classics. I had the fish-stuffed ravioli and my mom got the lasagna bolognese, both were excellent.
- Panificio Pasticceria Dama: A cake shop worth stopping by for something sweet.
How to Get There
Nearest Airports: Genoa is the closest airport. Pisa is the next best option. If you’re flying internationally from outside the EU, fly into Milan. It’s about a 3.5-hour train ride from the airport to Santa Margherita Ligure.
By Train: I took the train from Nice, France to Santa Margherita Ligure, which took around 3.5 hours. The train station is within a 15–20 minute walk of most places in Santa Margherita. If you’re traveling with a lot of luggage, you can easily grab a taxi from the station to your hotel. Book train tickets on Trenitalia.com, Italy’s official rail website.
By Car: If you’re driving, Santa Margherita is a great place to base yourself with a car. It’s larger and easier to navigate by car than Portofino or Cinque Terre. I suggest parking here and using local transportation (bus, train, ferry) to explore the surrounding towns.
How Much Time in Santa Margherita
I spent three days in Santa Margherita Ligure and wished I’d stayed one more. Four days is perfect if you plan to take day trips along the coast. Three days felt a bit rushed, and I wasn’t able to get to everything on my itinerary.
You only need half a day to see the town itself, but I highly recommend using Santa Margherita as your base for an Italian Riviera trip.